For as
long as they have existed in
Scotland, whisky was sold by taverns
and hotels, wine and spirits
merchants, grocers and provision
merchants.The whiskies were sold
under the merchants' or invented
names, not branded by the distiller,
although by the early 19th century
Glenlivet had made such a reputation
for itself that a huge number of
malts - many of them remote from
Glenlivet itself were using the
name.
It is
safe to suppose that some of these
merchants mixed their whiskies -
even diluted and adulterated them.
Until legislation permitted weaker
washes and smaller stills, illicit
malt whisky was much superior to the
legal variety; as we have seen, in
the Lowlands pot-still grain
distilleries were common.Young
whiskies were mixed with old; grain
with malt - all in the interests of
profit.
This
early 'blending' was a crude
affair.There was little quality
control, and little concern for
consistent, repeatable, products.
The
whisky blenders task is to combine a
number of malt and grain whiskies in
such a way that the resulting drink
is more than the sum of its parts.
Its
parts are many. The Master Blender
selects from between fifteen and
fifty different malt whiskies and
three or four grain whiskies.
Each
is at a different age (by law, they
must be at least three years old;
some may be twenty-five in even a
standard blend), and is chosen from
an individual cask
The Formulae for Blends
The
formulae for some blends are a
hundred years old, but they are not
sacrosanct. Distilleries close and
their product is no longer
available. Sometimes they choose to
withdraw from the blending market
and bottle their output as a single
(Glenmorangie did this in the early
1980s). From time to time whisky
companies alter the composition to
suit changing taste. This was
recently done, very successfully, by
Bell's (a bold step for the U.K.
market leader) and the new 8 Years
Old is richer and smoother than the
previous blend.
They
were assisted by a number of
factors. First was the appeal of the
product. Second, the growing fashion
for things Scottish, led by Queen
Vicloria herself. Third, the by now
well established rail and sea
routes, which made transportation
far easier than previously. Fourth,
by the existence of the British
Empire, the biggest free market in
the world.