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Whisky Tasting Journey: January 2009
By Brett Calish

The Macallan 1824 Collection

What??!! You still buy your whisky at liquor stores! How quaint. That’s old school – merely for the masses, the rank-and-file, the proletariat. It’s time for you to get sophisticated, to join the ruling class, to become a member of the global elite! Yes, it’s time for Global Travel Retail, or “duty-free”, as it’s sometimes still called by the working classes. Increasingly, distillers are marketing new whisky expressions solely in international GTR, hoping to cash in with freer spending travelers. It does make a certain amount of sense. These GTR whiskies are usually very good, but are from limited stocks. By limiting their distribution, and creating an “exclusivity buzz”, the distillers can not only market these whiskies, but can market them at prices that exceed those charged at neighborhood shops. Pretty smart, albeit elitist.

What??!! Poor peasant. You say that you can’t afford thousands of dollars on international airfare, for the opportunity to buy GTR exclusives. Lo siento, mon ami. But then again, these whiskies are not for bourgeoisie, remember?

In case you haven’t guessed (because I’m so trickily subtle), I HATE duty-free exclusives! It has nothing to do with the whiskies, but the snobby elitism and pomposity they elicit. Actually, that’s a lie – it does have something to do with the whisky! Namely, most of these GTR exclusives are pretty good, and it burns my butt that more people can’t experience them! I know that, in most cases, the supply simply isn’t there, but I just want people to be able to share in this stuff. Take the new range by The Macallan, called The 1824 Collection (ah yes, the subject of this review – you knew I’d get around to it). These whiskies are quite good, and beg to be shared with friends. Named for the year when The Macallan “went legal”, these four expressions help showcase the various characteristics of The Macallan, and are available at four quite distinct price points. They are delicious, and if travelling abroad, are definitely worth seeking-out. According to the distillery, the first three will be available in April, 2009, and the last one in October of the same year. My review, however, is available now (for what it’s worth). And you don’t have to travel thousands of miles to get it. Commoners!!!

Select Oak (40%, ~$60): Sweet and savory. There is light spice on the nose, but predominately malt, vanilla, and buttered popcorn. There is also moss and lavender to add to the complexity. A medium-weight body is followed by a delightfully drying, medium-length finish. Buttery and smooth, the finish is replete with malt, oak, oranges, and a light nutty character. The Select Oak is beautifully integrated, giving an overall impression of velvety sophistication. Nicely done!

Whisky Maker’s Edition (42.8%, ~$95): One whiff and you’ll know that the Whisky Maker’s Edition is a different animal entirely. Very oily and “meaty”, this expression also noses vanilla, fresh fruits (oranges), honey, ginger, mincemeat, malt, and lots of oak. Medium-textured, this dram has a rather hot, dry, and minty finish, with cardamom, marmalade, light sherry and smoke, and oak throughout. Lots of oak. Did I mention lots of oak? (As a side note, both the Whisky Maker’s Edition and the Select Oak are being bottled at one liter, making them an even better value.)

Estate Reserve (45.7%, ~$225): The star of this dram is its nose. Absorbing the best that its sherry casks and hogsheads could offer, the Estate Reserve is almost wine-like in its presentation. But there’s so much more! Chocolate, vanilla, salted cashews, amaretto, cloves, citrus; heck, a whole Christmas fruit basket! A medium/full body foretold of a beautiful finish to come. But, alas! The finish is merely good; shorter than anticipated, although still spicy, with oak, tart cherries, and a slightly chalky undertone. Not that the finish falls flat, mind you, it just doesn’t deliver on the promise. Ah, but that nose! Jimmy Durante, eat your heart out.

1824 Limited Release (48%, ~$1824): Whoa! If the Estate Reserve has a nose à la Jimmy Durante, then the 1824 is Durante meets Streisand! It has everything – deep and sweet; a mélange of fruits (some oranges, but mostly plums, apples, and pears); a wildflower orchard; the impression of gracefully swimming within an oaken pool. The nose of the 1824 Limited Release is at the intersection where velvet meets honey, and the merge is flawless. This dram has a beautiful medium-weight mouthfeel, and a glorious long, dry finish, chockfull of sherry, oak, golden honey, and warm apple pie. Mmmm. The nose does trump the finish, but if it didn’t, you’d go mad. The 1824 Limited Release is, quite simply, one of the best Macallan expressions I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing. Superb!