Now we’re
talkin’. Lagavulin is the whisky that
made me love whisky. Founded almost two
hundred years ago, Lagavulin Distillery
produces what, for me, is the
quintessential Islay malt – big, bold,
and unafraid. It is often suggested that
the whisky novice should start with a
milder Lowland or sweeter Speyside and
then, eventually, work his/her way “up
the ladder” until arriving at the
much-harder-to-stomach Islay malts.
Poppycock! There’s absolutely nothing
wrong with this approach, but it’s
hardly the only way! Islay whiskies, and
Lagavulin in particular, offer tastes
that, quite simply, aren’t found in most
of their “non-island” brethren. (I know,
the whole of Scotland’s an island, but
I’m hoping you get my point.) And if I
had started my tasting experience with
Speyside drams, and then stopped, I
would have never been here writing this.
No comments, please.
So without further
ado, the lineup:
12
Year Old (58.2%): A very peaty
nose, as expected, but with only a
hint of smoke, this whisky quickly
announces itself as very different
from its four years older brother.
The nose also has notes of subtle
toffee, iodine, and heavy grasses,
as well as a nod to various dry
white wines. Buttery and
mouth-coating, the 12-year-old has a
long finish that is, by turns, both
sharp yet smooth, very peaty yet
lightly smoky, phenolic yet with
flavors of fruit candies. A
worthwhile comparison to Lagavulin’s
other expressions.
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16
Year Old (43%): Big peat and
barbeque smoke help define the nose
of this signature dram. There are
also other delights to be wafted
here, most notably salt marshes,
seaweed, gauze, light floral notes,
and scents that recall an autumn
orchard. More medium-bodied than I
recall, the medium-long finish
bursts with a beautiful dryness that
helps accentuate this classic’s
peaty, smoky character. It’s not all
peat and smoke, though – under it
all there’s a certain cereal
sweetness, as well as a bit of
citrus (lemons), candy corn, sea
breezes, and tart apples. Not for
the faint of heart, but gives
rewards by the glassful. My desert
island dram.
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Distiller’s Edition (43%) (1990,
bottled 2006): Secondarily
matured in Pedro Ximenez sherry
casks, one whiff will help delineate
this Lagavulin from its brethren. As
you would expect, this is a very
sherried dram! Almost Cabernet-like,
this whisky also noses blueberries
and floral notes along with its
light peatiness, and one taster even
picked-up stewed fruits. A medium
mouth feel gives way to a
not-overly-complex finish,
predominated by a pleasing
astringency that is actually almost
cooling! Wine-like in its tannic
character, this dram wafts away on a
pillow of dried nuts. Very enticing.
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21 Year Old (56.5%): Lots of
overpowering stuff here. The nose is
extremely perfumed; full of ripe
fruits, peaches, caraway seeds, and
loads of malt. It is coastal,
lightly smoky, and, according to
another taster contains hints of
caramel fudge, though I have to
admit, I’m missing that. Deliciously
full-bodied and mouth-coating. The
finish is also extremely big and
full, stuffed with cooked fruits,
sugar almonds, nonpareils, and
especially smoke. Honestly, a very
nice dram, though I would have liked
a little more balance between the
beginning perfume and the ending
smoke. |
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30 Year Old (52.6%): Damn.
Why do some expensive whiskies have
to taste so darn good? Subtle and
elegant, the 30 year old has very
little bite, replacing that with
notes of butterscotch, malt, light
citrus, and fresh almonds.
Medium-bodied, this whisky is just
so…so…smooth, with a finish
containing light peat and smoke (of
course), malt, oak, Kona coffee, and
fresh cream. All-consuming. I hate
this dram. |
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Questions or comments are welcome, I can be reached at
brett@whiskyguild.com
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