Whisky Tasting Journey: April  2007
By Brett Calish

Highland Park


As beautiful and distinct as their island home, the whiskies of Highland Park are a connoisseur’s dream. Why? Because they seem to have the best qualities of whisky – smoky, peaty, fruity, complex. In short, something for everyone, or anyone.

Maybe this multifaceted nature of Highland Park whisky can be traced to its island home, Orkney. Situated, seemingly, at the ends of the Earth, Orkney has been previously described by many others as “otherworldly”. I don’t know about that, but I do know that the whiskies are out of this world! Whether you’re an Islay man or a Speyside guy, you’ll find something to love about Highland Park.

In that vein, one Islay man and two Speyside guys sat down with the whole range…

 
Highland park 12 year old:

If you like a youthful, heavily sherried, yet vibrant dram, this just might be the one for you. The hints of heather, bitter orange, and ozone in the nose belie a medium, slightly oily mouth-feel. But it’s in the finish where this expression excels. Short, warming, lightly peated, and with an essence of orange cake, it’s the finish that will hook you on this one.

 

 
Highland Park 15 year old:

This may seem silly, but this dram was…fun. It’s crisp, light body was preceded by a nose of lightly roasted pecans, malt, and fresh-cut lawn. Not what we expected from a Highland Park. And that carried over to the finish. I’m not sure the Highland Park people would appreciate the comparison, but the 15 year old reminded me of a “Lagavulin light”: peat, iodine, burnt rope, but offset nicely by tart apples and some chestnuts as it wafted away in a very smooth finish. In a word – Delicious.
 

 
Highland Park 18 year old:

As a carnival barker might say, “Alright everyone, step right up!” When “whisky aficionados” (snobs) talk about the quintessential whisky, Highland Park 18 always comes up. And though it pains me to agree with them, they’re right on the money! This is the “it’s-got-everything-you-could-want-in-a-whisky” whisky. The nose recalls fresh mixed nuts, cream soda, cotton candy, heather, and fireplace embers. The body is lightly chewy; substantial, yet not overbearing. And the finish! Muted heat of peat and smoke, some marzipan sweetness, and that trademark orange (peel) essence. This is Highland Park.
 

 
Highland Park 25 year old:

Where to start! Very complex, with a nose full of sherry, honey, wet walnuts, hospital gauze, kumquats, and dried spices (yup, all that!), this one perked-up some tired eyes. The 25 year old had a medium body that segued nicely into a beautiful warm, shortish, lightly biting finish full of fresh oranges and lotus cakes. Syrupy, yet slightly smoky, this is the only bottle I took home with me. Need I say more?
 

 
Highland Park 30 year old:

Highland Park’s sippin’ whisky. Very subtle, with a (not overpowering) oaky nose, that is also slightly nutty with a vanilla sweetness and musty character. There seem to be different layers of sweetness to the nose that just add to the overall complexity of the dram. The body is crisp and clean on the palate, belying this whisky’s 30 years. This beauty’s smooth finish completes the package – dry, medium-to-short, with apples and that almost omnipresent bitter-orange character. A whisky to be savored.
 

 
   
Questions or comments are welcome, I can be reached at brett@whiskyguild.com

 

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