Whisky Tasting Journey: July  2007
By Brett Calish

Signatory


“Summer of Love” was my first choice; but seeing as how that’s already been done, we at the Whiskyguild have decided to make this the “Summer of Independent Bottlers”. Sure it’s not quite as catchy, or as fun, but good drink is one of our favorite vices. And coming on the heels of last month’s Tasting Round-Up of some Duncan Taylor bottlings, we decided to sample a selection from another well-known and well-respected independent bottler – Signatory. Although they’ve only been around for about twenty years, the quality of Signatory’s bottlings, not to mention their regional breadth, is remarkable. To that end, we recently sampled six Signatory whiskies from four of Scotland’s regions (sorry Lowlands), to see if they were “Summer of Independent Bottlers” quality.

Oh boy, were they ever! [Maybe it really is the Summer of Love, after all]
 
Glenturret 13YO, 1992:

An incredible soft, buttery nose, full of sweet candy corn, seaweed, brine, ivy, and simple syrup. In fact, this Highland almost had “too much”; an overabundance of what’s good. I loved it, but still felt assaulted. After the nose, this Glenturret seemed to behave a little more, with a beautiful, slightly oily, medium-weight mouthfeel. The finish didn’t echo, but instead complimented the nose. There were notes of marzipan, Bounty bars, coconut, and toasted oak in its medium-length finish. This dram was a treat.

 

 
Glenrothes 12YO, 1994:

A classic Speyside. If you are a Glenrothes fan, it’s all here for you, just tweaked a little. The nose, though sharper than usual, is still full of citrus (especially orange zest), with “oodles” of nutmeg and malt. There is an abundance of vanilla on the palate, but this Glenrothes is a little lighter, even thinner, than we were used to from this distillery. The finish picks this one back up, however. Very well-balanced; long and warming, with lemon and grapefruit at first, and a wafting of oak at the end.
 

 
Mannochmore 13YO, 1991:

A whisky man’s whisky. Another Speyside, this is a wonderful dram for people who really appreciate whisky. The nose starts out pretty strong and grassy, but quickly morphs into a cereal grain maltiness, with vanilla, nougat, and definite milk chocolate notes. It has a hot, medium, slightly chewy body, and then blossoms with flavors of dried fruits, corn husks, and more milk chocolate sweetness. A very warming and satisfying dram.
 

 
Ledaig 13YO, 1993:

A Highland from the island of Mull, this is a rather simple dram, with a very fresh nose: lightly briny, with wisps of smoke weaving in & out of the vanilla and oak. An exceptionally light body is followed quickly by a short finish of iodine and muskmelon. An aperitif whisky, for those so inclined.
 

 
Bowmore 35YO, 1970:

Ah…an Islay. And a nice old one at that, though you wouldn’t know it from the freshness of the nose – very pretty. There is also licorice and light sherry, but what predominates is a profound Bowmore smokiness, specifically salami and smoked summer sausages. The body on this dram continues the “chewy” theme, being beautifully full-bodied. This Bowmore’s finish was not nearly as big as the nose, though it did still have a level of smokiness to it, along with old sherry and a slight mustiness, and (possibly) too much oak. Still, nice to see how some extra time in the cask can change a classic whisky.
 

 
Glen Scotia 12YO, 1992:

Any day that I can get my hands on a Campbeltown whisky is a good day. Traditionally lighter than its neighbor, Springbank, this Glen Scotia did not disappoint. A very deep, well-balanced dram, it started-off very fresh, full of sea-air, freshly mown lawn, malt, almond extract, and Italian torrone. With a satisfying medium-light body, this whisky was just setting us up for the finish; medium, yet quietly lingering, with an open-air freshness, and the soft sweetness of fresh almonds and light mocha. A delicate, elegant whisky.
 

If you live in the New Jersey / New York area, these two stores have a great selection of Signatory.
 
Marketplace Wine and Spirits
647-G Route 18
East Brunswick NJ, 08816

Ask for Nick Agathis
 
Canal's Burlington
2004 Burlington Mt-Holly Rd.
Route 541
Burlington NJ,08016

Ask for Susan Seroka (Scotch Specialist)
 

 


 
August will feature seven rare drams from Duncan Taylor.
 

   
Questions or comments are welcome, I can be reached at brett@whiskyguild.com

 

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