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Whisky Tasting Journey: November 2008
By Brett Calish

The Balvenie

First, my disclaimer: I have a soft spot in my heart for The Balvenie distillery. There, I’ve said it – the proverbial weight off the shoulders. But, honestly, how can you blame me? And no, it’s not the golden amber flowing off the stills at this most iconic of Speyside homes. It’s not the aged provenance, with The Balvenie distilling since 1892. It’s not the fact that both The Balvenie and her next-door neighbor, Glenfiddich, are both owned by the Grant family, and that this length of family-ownership is not only rare and special, but something to be celebrated. It’s not the distillery’s bucolic setting, nor wholly due to the (always) graciousness of the distillery staff. In fact, it’s not even due to the quality of the whisky, whose various attributes I describe below. No, that has almost nothing to do with my warm feelings about The Balvenie distillery.

A couple of years back, while being taken around the distillery, I had a chance to actually go inside the pagoda, while the freshly peated barley was drying. I WAS IN THE PAGODA, dude! How cool is that! (Ahem, sorry.) Honestly, though, since most distillery pagodas are now merely for show, to not only see one still being used, but to be allowed to go up into one, while in use – it’s too cool! And this isn’t something that only whisky writers can do. Apparently, it is (sometimes) included on the distillery tour. Even if it wasn’t (or isn’t when you go), The Balvenie distillery is still well worth the trip, and its whiskies well worth exploring.

There, I feel so cleansed. And now, a sampling:

12 Year Old (Double Wood) (43%): Opens with a nose full of orange zest, but also vanilla, malt, caramel, and spice (ginger, cinnamon). The Double Wood’s aroma is also slightly “biscuity”, recalling a kitchen after baking. A medium mouthfeel, presages a medium-long, sweet finish of sherry, honey, malt, and some oak at the very end. And oranges. You’d better like oranges.

12 Year Old (Signature) batch 001 (43%): A very tight nose, but also exceedingly “clean”. Oranges are replaced by apple skins, which harmonize nicely with honey, vanilla, and freshly baked bread. Medium-bodied, the Signature also has a very warming, medium-length finish, replete with orange creams, peach pits, (very) light peat, Fruity Pebbles, homestyle biscuits, and light spiciness. I always look for a whisky’s finish and nose to complement each other. These do; and quite nicely.

15 Year Old (Single Barrel) (47.8%): A scintillating nose! It is fresh, eye-opening, and invigorating; grassy and lemony, with big malt and hints of allspice. Good Morning! Unfortunately, this dram quickly says goodnight. It is, unsurprisingly, medium-light on the palate, but unfortunately a little too short in the finish. Maybe not unfortunately. Unless you like peppery heat mixed with marsh grass and bitter orange zest. (Since the 15 YO expression is from a single barrel, and each barrel produces only 300+ bottles of whisky, it goes without saying that almost each bottle you buy will probably be a little different. In fact, some of the best Balvenie’s that I’ve had have been from the 15 YO expression. This particular bottle was not one of them. Do not let that sway you – my past experience convinces me that this bottle was an anomaly. I hope.)

17 Year Old (Rum Cask) (43%): Rum!!! Nosing this dram, I felt like throwing-on an eye patch, swinging the bottle around, and giving a little Yo Ho Ho. It’s almost that overpowering. But, shiver me timbers, there is more to it. Avast (sorry, I get carried away), there’s also fresh nuts, vanilla wafers, and nectarines lurking in this inviting aroma. The body is medium-weight, and the finish medium-length, with distinct flavors dueling for prominence: the bitter of quinine and orange zest vs. the sweet of honey and fruitcake. An interesting dram, for when you want something different. Aye, me hearties?

17 Year Old (Sherry Oak) limited edition (43%): I’m usually not a fan of BIG sherry drams – I find them overpowering. This dram is an exception. It is beautifully textured and, although the sherry is completely to the fore, it is far from oppressive. In fact, this limited edition release is remarkably fresh, allowing all of its olfactory friends to come out and play: almonds (roasted and fresh), well-oiled leather, balsamic vinegar, and gorgeous oak. Given the sherry, the body was lighter than I imagined it would be (which is not to say it was light, at all). The finish to this expression was no less luxurious: vanilla, lemon crème, and butter-almond ice cream. And a little sherry, of course. My advice (for what it’s worth): get a bottle, before they’re gone!

21 Year Old (Port Wood) (43%): The Port Wood starts out with the traditional Balvenie aroma of oranges and oak, but the port pipes add so much more: raspberries, honey, a sweetness somewhere between saccharin and marzipan, and above all, depth. Like most Balvenies, the Port Wood has a medium-weight body, but the finish is now starting to stretch-out. And that’s a good thing, because this finish is full. With a mélange of mixed, salted nuts, sweet malt, bitter orange, light peat, fresh toffee, and recollections of a summer orchard, this is one 21 year old who’s all grown up.

25 Year Old (Single Barrel) (46.9%): This one starts off a little musty, as of tired oak; but it’s hardly exhausted. The nose quickly perks up to aromas of roasted nuts, sandalwood, simple syrup, and a mix of mint and barley. It’s almost intoxicating. This 25 YO is very full-bodied, especially for a Balvenie, and also has quite a long finish; a nice treat. And what a finish! Full of more roasted nuts, toasted oak, maple syrup, breakfast sausage, a healthy dose of peat, and (lest we forget) hints of bitter orange. This is the only expression which I’ve reviewed here that is, sadly, no longer available. I put it in, in the hopes that you can find a bottle on a dusty shelf somewhere. When you do, thank me.